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Swimming with Crocodiles…a Kenyan Safari

Swimming with CrocodilesDestination visited: Kenya

Activities included: Birdwatching, Canoeing, Mountain Climbing, Walking

This past summer I was made privy to one of the best kept secrets in all of Kenya: Island Camp at Lake Baringo. A remote yet luxurious and affordable tented camp, that sits atop it’s own enchanted island in the middle of one of Kenya’s most spectacular volcanic lakes, Lake Baringo.

I spent the entire summer in Nairobi as an Intern for McCann-Erickson Advertising and traveled extensively with my girlfriend who has family in Kenya going back several generations. I experienced Kenya as the locals do, and for many of them, Lake Baringo is unquestionably their favorite spot

Lake Baringo holds the world record for the largest number of bird species seen in a 24 hour period. Although for me, kicking back with a cold Tusker (the local brew) in my secluded tent and soaking up the beauty of this majestic lake is what I remember most. The panoramic views are amazing and as the sun sets the water comes alive in a myriad of colors. Baringo is a fresh water lake and like no other I have seen before. It’s high concentration of volcanic ash and electrolytes gives it a consistency and color more like chocolate milk. For the brave at heart, the water skiing is excellent. However with little to no visibility, the resident hippos and crocodiles move about virtually undetected.

Locals assure you that the hippos and crocs stay far enough away from the island to pose any real threat, but never the less, their presence is an undeniable risk. For me, the feeling of the silky water against my skin, the ideal conditions for skiing, and the outrageous story I could tell of swimming with crocodiles, proved too big of a temptation. I made the plunge!!

Fly into Nairobi, Jomo Kenyata International Airport. Check the Internet for the cheapest tickets. Because of expensive airfares and the time lost in travel, a minimum stay of two weeks is suggested. Spend some time getting to know Nairobi. Also, if you can convince a local to go with you, chances are you too can pay resident rates for all accommodations and park entrance fees. This cuts your cost by more than half, plus the company makes for a far more memorable experience! The best way to get to Lake Baringo is by car. Kenyan busses or “Matatus” are quite dangerous but a great way to absorb the local culture, also a lot cheaper that renting a car. If you decide on a car be sure and drive carefully. The roads are horrible and Matatus rarely observe the center dividers. The four hour drive North to Baringo takes you down the eastern wall of the Great Rift Valley through Lake Nakuru and Lake Naivasha. Both of these National Parks merit at least a one night stay. The Flamingo concentration on Lake Nakuru is considered one of the world’s greatest natural wonders, and the National Park is filled with some of the best wildlife in Kenya. I prefer camping, which requires advance planning, but both locations have great safari lodges. Once you have arrived at Lake Baringo you will take a half hour boat ride out to the island. Be sure to call in advance for reservations at Island Camp.

Sundowner at Gibraltar Rock. (It is customary to climb the highest point at sundown and have a beer, glass of pimms, wine etc. Gibraltar rock is a ten minute boat ride from Island camp and provides a spectacular view.) Water skiing and or a morning swim in the lake . (Whatever you do, make sure you get in the water!) A boat safari to observe the hippos and crocodiles. (Do this AFTER you have gone in the water, otherwise you’ll never make it in!)Watch the Fish Eagles and the King Fishers dive for fish. Relax and discover why so many locals find this place to be so magical. Oh, last but not least, spend some time getting to know the boat keeper. (An absolute character…he’s probably 90 years old, but who can tell in Kenya, and he wears these flamboyant oversized disco sunglasses).

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