Gorilla Camp
Destination visited: Uganda
Activities included: Birdwatching, Hiking/Trekking, Mountain Climbing, Walking
Overnight trip from the capital of Kampala into the dense Virunga National Forest Reserve for a morning trekking the elusive Mountain Gorillas.
Headed out early morning on local bus to the very SW tip of Uganda where the park bourders on three countries, Uganda, Zaire (now Congo) and Rwanda. Extremely long and at times thrilling ride along worn mountain roads. Cost minimal, about 30. US and 9 hours of your time. Once arriving in Rukingiri town get a lift (paid or otherwise) into the park, about another 30 minutes. Avoid this trip during the rainy season of February and March. The roads are way too scary! Stay overnight in the camp and be up early so you can be one of the nine people able to trek gorillas the next day. There are assorted hiking and bird watching if you have to wait an extra day. It realy pays off to be flexible. There are tour operators, along the lines of Abercrombe & Finch that can take you to VNP but for the fiscally minded the public bus is the way to go.
Hands down the Silverback was the most impressive of God’s creatures I have ever laid my eyes on. The whole day was truly an adventure. The two park guides, Kinyonmozi and Josufol, were fun-loving gents that could have won a stage award had it been broadway. The norm is to lead the group through twisty vine covered mountains straight up and down to the spot the Gorillas were viewed the previous day. They animatedly point out every twisted branch and pile of dung on the trail. You really got caught up in the chase. For me, being vertically challenged, by the end of the day I was covered in mud. Every tenth step sent me on my tail and the guides really found it amazing I could be so clumsy. We had to cross the Zaire border to see the Gorillas and the Zaire Border Guides were waiting (mysteriously) in the middle of this huge jungle. When they caught a glimpse at my mud covered garments they were undone. In my rudimentary Swahili I understood my new name was going to be the dirty-one. All said and done I would do this trip again and again.
The only real problems that someone could encounter are fire ants. (YIKES!) Rebel activity is rare and following the news and travel advisories is key. Mugging still happens, leave valuables at home and realize that bribery is somewhat common. I did not have a problem the whole year in Uganda but know many who were mugged. It is a possibility of any third-world travel. A saavy travelor will stick with the crowd and not display wealth. Bring a camera and 1000 speed film for the jungle and gorilla viewing but keep items like that off display. Experiement with not wearing a watch. Believe me when I say you won’t have a problem with being tardy in Ug.
Remember to bring a fleece, long pants and long sleeve shirts and minimal gear. No porters on this trip, you carry your own gear. The lodging and bathing facilities (outside) are pretty austere. A flashlight some basic hiking first aid stuff, face towel, energy bar and definetely your water will suffice. You can pay for local gruel for a modest price. Believe me when I say you will be hungry enough to enjoy it. I was cold in the mountains, not having much gear to keep me warm. The Ugandian park rangers gregarious welcome was enough to keep me warm and excited for the journey ahead. I cherish my short visit and hope that it wont be much longer before I venture out there again. Asante sana.
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