Destination visited: China
Activities included: Birdwatching

Emei Shan is one of four holy mountains in China, and a site of pilgrimmage for Buddhists from all over China. It is located about three hours by local bus from Chengdu, in Szechuan province. The challenge is to see dawn from the top of the mountain and then hike down the mountain. Really dedicated pilgrims hike up the mountain as well, sleeping in monasteries built along the path. Organized tours usually allow tourists to walk around the base of the mountain for an hour.

I travelled to Chengdu from Xian by plane, then found a local bus to take me to the village at the base of the mountain. Local mini-buses leave the village at 3 am to drive a sinewy, narrow road up the mountain. By 6 am the buses arrive at the top, over the cloud line, and pilgrims continue on foot, draped in Chinese army greatcoats for warmth, to a viewing area near the top. Then, you walk down the mountain on miles of stone steps cut into the mountain, across ravines, through jungle, resting and eating in temples on the way, being surprised and held hostage by gangs of cookie-loving golden monkeys … until you crawl exhausted along the road back to the village.

Every part of Emei Shan (pronounced O-mei) is a highlight, from the rickety mini-bus ride in the middle of the night, with its 5 am noodle stop, to the clear dawn stretching out over the cloud line and the tips of the pines, to the friendly faces of fellow hikers (all pointing to their knees with expressions of pain), to the cookie-hungry golden monkeys. The steps are ancient and worn, through jungle that is green and moist , surrounded by a landscape of incredible beauty.

This is a popular hike among Chinese of all ages – although it is extremely hard on the knees and ankles. Plan to wear shoes which cushion your joints as well as absorbent cotton clothes, because the entire winding downward path ( about 17 km) is made up of stone steps. Porters will carry you down the mountain on a sort of folding cot for a fee if you collapse, but you can also stay overnight along the way in one of the many shelters. Food (noodles in broth, buns and sweet dumplings) as well as tea and bottled water, can be bought at the temple-shelters along the way. I hiked it alone and felt perfectly safe at all times – although I did wonder if my knees weren’t going to give out, precipitating me to the bottom of a ravine never to be seen again!

The village at the base of Emei Shan was a popular summer residence for the Europeans stationed in Szechuan before WWII. One of the hotels available is located on the property of one such summer house. A less strenuous pilgrimmage would take you to the monasteries of the island of Ningbo, off the coast of Shanghai.

Birdwatching, Eco/Nature, Nature Observation
Dawn, Emei Shan, Province, Szechuan